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Scully, Saint James’s Market, London

Scully joins the Ottolenghi alumni with aplomb

Scully joins the Ottolenghi alumni with aplomb

James Bell

It’s been 16 years since Yotam Ottolenghi opened a deli in Notting Hill. Since then, he’s published six cookbooks (most recently, last year’s Sweet: Desserts from London's Ottolenghi) expanded the deli’s and opened restaurants in Islington and Spitalfields, as well as Nopi in Soho, with his business partner Sami Tamimi. For prodigious chefs and restaurateurs, working with him has become a badge of quality and a sign of great things to come — as these new ventures, opened by his former employees, show. Following in the footsteps of Josh Katz (Berber & Q), Louis Stolley (Jago), Itamar Srulovich and Sarit Packer (Honey & Co, Honey & Smoke) and Oded Mizrachhi (The Good Egg), the 

newest member of Ottolenghi’s star alumni is Ramael Scully; who after 13 years in a supporting role, first at Ottolenghi, later as head chef at NOPI, has opened his first solo restaurant in the heart of the re-established historic St James’s Market.

Scully is known for his exciting and unusual flavour combinations, which are a result of his mixed heritage and personal travels. He’s part Chinese, Indian, Balinese and Irish, and has been influenced by travels to the Middle East, Russia and Europe. Having had the benefit of such a diverse cultural upbringing, not to mention his vast experiences 

from traveling the world; expect an explosion of flavours using sustainable, locally sourced ingredients where possible, created and served in an informal yet refined setting.

We were encouraged by our outstanding waiter to order five or six dishes to share, for three people. The menu is short and changes with the seasons in herbs and vegetables which are resplendently displayed in the ‘working pantry’ by the entrance, all powered by Ramael Scully’s ingenuity.The fusion of cultural influences is a resounding success and further proof that Ottolenghi’s pupils are still taking the capital by storm.